A General Geographical Description of Zetland

Shetlopedia - The Shetland Encyclopaedia

A GENERAL GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF ZETLAND

by Hugh Leigh, Minister of the Gospel in Brassie and Buro through John Marr. Date unknown.^[1]

This Island hath several denominations. By the Norvgians it is called Yeltland, because in old time the Inhabitants here, made a kind of course Cloth, named Yelt, which was carried to Norway and sold there. By the Scots and English it is called Shetland, because in old time, there were many Sheath- fish caught about its Coast. And by the Hollanders it is called Hetland, because as in old time, so now it is covered with Heather.

However it be now named, yet it is certain, it must be that old Thule so frequently mentioned by the Poets ; as Tibi serviat Ultima Thule by Virgil; nec sit terris Ultima Thule by Seneca; For 1. Heylyn in his Geography on ... declares, that Solinus sayes, Multae sunt circa Britaniam Insulae, equibus Thule Ultima: consequently this Island must be one of the British Isles. And again that Tacitus sayes Insulas, quas Orcadas vocant, invenit domuitque; dispeca est et Thule: and therefore this true Thule cannot be far from Orkney. 2. Ross in his Virgilius Evangelizans not only agrees with Heylyn, but adds more to the Confirmation hereof, those words are Revera Shetlandia Scotorum regno subjecta est ipsissima Thule, quam ideo nautae Thileusel vocant. Elevatio Poli cum Ptolomaica exacte consentit, et opponitur Bergen Norvegiarum, & moreover adds Haec vera esse experentia comperi: transegi namq tres menses oestivos in hoc Thule. And truly the middle part of this Countrey answereth in latitude to Bergen in Norway: for the south end of it lyeth under the 60 and the north end of it under the 61 degree of North Latitude and lyeth under the 24 degree of Longitude. About the Aestival Solstice here is no darkness; yea a moneth before and after it, if the Horizon be any thing clear, all the night time one can read a Letter.

The length of it, running nearest South and North, is 60 miles, which beginneth at Soundbrough-head Southward, & endeth at the Skae of Unst Northward. The breadth of it, running nearest East and West is sixteen or eighteen miles, where it is broadest, which beginneth at Bressay Eastward, And endeth at Walls, Westward, but where it is narowest, it is but one mile broad, which is at Quarffdale.

To the South south west of it, especially from Soundbrough-head some 26 or 28 miles lyes the Fair Isle famous for the shipwrack of the Duke of Medina, Admiral of the Spanish Armado 1588. Here is no Harbour for Ships save a little Bay, that lyeth on the North north East end of the Isle, only for the Summer time.

To the West of Zetland especially from Scalloway, some 20 miles, but from Walls some 8 or ten miles, lyeth the Isle Fowlaye wherein is a Promontory called Lorafield, which hath a perpendicular Hole never yet sounded, though sometimes attempted and tried. The Fair Isle and Fowlaye are high lands. This last lyeth to the former North West and by North some 8 Dutch miles. In Fowlaye there is no Road or Harbour for ships.

This Island or Countrey of Zetland for the most part is highly Rocky on the Shore, and very mountainous up in the land the superficies whereof is covered with Heather, and under the same is abundance of Turff or Peet ground special good for fire-fewel.

Its Inhabitants are distinguished into the Clergy and Laity. The Clergy or Ministery, in customes, fashions and manners joyntly agree with those of the Ministery of the Mainland of Scotland.

The Laity is distinguished into the Gentry and Communalty. They of the Gentry in customes, fashions, and manners almost agree with those of the Gentry of the Mainland of Scotland, from whence at first they did come, save that they seldom unanimously bestir themselves for the promoving and management of a publick good, and are much given to tipling and drinking; Bibacissimi &c as Maginus characterizeth the Orcades. They of the Communalty, the Native Inhabitants, being descended from the Norvegians generally having a Patronymical sirname, are nimble of body, docile, hospitaI, dissembling, lattering, false, and lascivious. They speak among themselves a corrupt Nords Tongue called Norn, but not so much now as formerly. Generally they are healthfull, being of a wholesome constitution. The Physicians use not to get great employment among them. The Women generally are well favoured, and much given to vertue and frugality. The Vulgar commonly live till they be five, six, or seven score years of age.

Here man and woman, Husband and Wife, Parent and Child, Master and Servant yea young and old are much given to snuffing and smoking Tobacco.

The greatest part of their food in the summer time is Fish and Milk, whereof as profitable use is made as any where else; and in the Winter they feed strongly on Fleshes.

This Countrey being good for Pasturage; it is well, but it hath been better stored with Horses, Neat, Sheep, Hog and Coneys. The Horses are of a little sise and excellent mettell: for one of them will easily carry a man or woman 20 miles a day; and they will live [till] they be 20 or 30 years of age though they be never stabled Summer or Winter. The Neat, both Oxen and Kine, are of a considerable sise lesser than these of England, but greater than these of Orkney, Caithness, or the Northmost places of Scotland. The Sheep, most of them being unhorned are generally black and speckled, rough-wooled, which is not shorn as in other Countreys, but about midsummer is pulled off. The Hoggs are of a middle size, which for the most part feed on the mountains and the Coneys being of a light brown colour, feed on Grass-Links and holmes.

Here are no Hares or Foxes; neither Asps, Snakes, Adders, Toads, Puddocks or any venomous creature. If Rats be brought hither by shipping, they will not live over a year or two. In several places here, Mice will not live.

Here are abundance of Selchs and Otters ; a good skin of one of the latter will cost a Rix Doller or 3lb Scots.

Here are some Whaps, Plovers and Ducks of all kinds with a great resort of sea-fowls, who inhabite and nestle in the Rocks on the Shore.

Here are many ravenous Fowls as Eagles, Ravens and Crows. In old time here they so multiplied, that the Fonde or Sheriff made an Act, That whosoever at the Head Court, brought in an Eagle's head, from each having Sheep in that Pasture, he should have a Merk ; whosoever brought in a Raven's head, should have an half Merk ; and whosoever brought in a Crow's head, should have fourty pennies Scots.

In several places here are good Falcons and each year His Majesties Falconer repairing thither receiveth their Brood.

In this Countrey, the Corn-land is so little, that, where the sea bounds not, it is diked round about. And no other grain grows here but that of Oats and Beer, which would not sustain the third of the Inhabitants one year ; which defect is supplied by Scotland and Orkney, who in the summer time bringing the Victual hither, receive therefore money & other Countrey-Commodities.

There are no Parks here, but in many places excellent Meadow ground, where yearly about Lammas is mowed abundance of good Hay.

There are no Woods or Forrests here. But it would seem that there hath been such in old time, because that in several places of this Countrey are found under ground great Roots and long Trunks of Trees. There is not to be seen here a Tree now of two or three fathoms long. Only in the Yard of Scalloway there are some few Shrubs.

Here hath not been any memorable Battel fought; but there have been several Broyls and private Skirmishes not worth the noticing, far less recording.

It is supposed that there are some Copper and Brass Mines here; but where they ly, that is not as yet known.

As for any ancient Monuments, there are none here; but only in several places of the Countrey, there are long stones erected, called by the Inhabitants, Standing Stones, pitched as it is thought, upon the account of Slaughter or murder committed in that individual place.

As for any Rarities, there are very few here; save that it is very credibly reported, that there is a Hillock beside Schalldister in Whalsey, whereupon if a Mariners Compass, be set, it will so much vary that the North point will turn to the South: but remove it a foot hence, or a very little distance, and it will keep its true pointing. The like is observed in Fettlar on the Chappel-Wall of Old Staye. In this Countrey also are muscles and Oysters, wherein are found good Pearls.

Here are many Lochs stored with Eels and common speckled Trouts, also several Springs and Rivulets ; but it is not as yet known if the Water of any of them be Medicinal.

The Houses here are all built of rough & unhewn stone, not the smallest Cottage excepted, the common and ordinary thacking is of a kind of Divet, called by the Inhabitants Flais, and Straw and Simmons above the same which is yearly renewed by the respective Owners about Hallow Mass, Some Houses are thacked with deals. There are but only four Houses here thacked with Slate.

Here are two Castles to wit the Castle of Scalloway built by Earle Patrick Stewart anno 1600 now become ruinous; the Castle of Moraness in Unst built by Laurence Bruce son to Coppina Lindie whose Heirs possess the same to this day.

Here is a Fort at Lerwick on the Westside of Bressa-Sound built at the King's Maties expence Anno 1666, the Houses wherein, were burnt by the Hollander Anno 1673.

Here are also many old Fabricks erected, as it is supposed, by the ancient Picts, when driven out from Scotland. These have been built in a Pyramidal fashion, with a winding Stair within to the top ; in the bottom whereof were diverse Cells, all vaulted above, from the top of which when there was any imminent danger, they made a sign by fire one to another. The like they did from Promontories or Wart Hills. But all these Fabricks now are very ruinous and called they are by the Inhabitants Brughes.

In old time the sea about this Coast was well stored with all common sort of fishes, as Mackrels, Herrings, Lings, Cods, Haddocks, Whitings, Sheaths but especially with Podlines, i.e. young Sheaths, called by the Inhabitants Pelltacks, which in fair weather would come so near to the shore, that men yea and children, from the Rocks with Fishing-rods could catch them in abundance. But all kinds of Fishing is greatly decayed here notwithstanding that greater pains is taken by the Fishers now than ever before, who with small Norway Yoolls, two or three men in each of them, will adventure to the far sea and oft times endure hard weather.

Here in the Summer time is caught an excellent kind of fish on the Eastside of the Countrie, particularly on the Northeast & South East of Bressay, called by the Inhabitants Brissmacks by the Hollanders Lump, and by the Scots and English Tusk.

About the whole Coast here, there is a strong Current of Tide-gate.

Upon the East & Westsides of this Countrey a South south east Moon maketh High Water, only at Soundbrough-head a South or a South and by East Moon maketh High Water.

This Countrey is well accommodated with excellent Bays and Roads very commodious and secure for all kind of shipping, the ground being clean, naturally inclining to a sandy Clay, and the Water considerably deep. Here are no dry Harbours as in Scotland, antl other places ; but in several places, ships can be safely brought aground and bett.

The Shore here sometimes casts up Whales, Ships and driven Timber, upon which the Admiral-Deputes seise and make all their Own: and they that are nearest neigbours oft-times smart by the by.

The Product of this Countrey is mainly Fish, Oyl, Butter, Wool, Feathers, Beef, Tallow, Hides, Stuff, Stockings, and Woolen gloves and Garters. In old time, there was a considerable Trade kept here but now is greatly decayed, which is imputed both to the scarcity of the Commodities themselves, and to the Publicans exorbitant Exactions. At this day only a few Hamburghers and Bremers use a small trafficking in it. Heretofore in the years of Peace, the Hollanders did great good here: for coming upon the Coast, fishing herring, they used to arrive in Bressay-Sound to the number of ten or fifteen hundred sail, and buy from the Inhabitants, Stuffs, Stockings, Woolen Gloves and Garters in abundance, for the Which they delivered either money or any other Commodity they stood in need of.

The Civil Government here, since ever this Countrey was annexed to the Crown of Scotland which was in the Year of God 1266, hath been under Fowdrie or Sheriffship till the Year of God 1669, when it was with Orkney erected in a Stewardry and so continueth.

The Seat of Justice is in the Maties House the Castle of Scallowaye, where yearly the Steward or his Depute keep two Head Courts ; the one at Crossmass, and the other at Hallowmass; besides Circuits and other particular Courts as necessary occasions require.

Nota. In each Ministery, at leask in each Parish, the Stewart doth substitute a particular Bailie for deciding smaller affairs of Neighbour-hood betwixt man and man: but all matters of importance are brought before the Steward, or his Depute, and the said Baillie is still to be personally present at the two Head-Courts.

The Church Government here, since ever the Reformation hath been Presbytery, subordinate to the Bishop of Orkney and Zetland. The Ministers are in number eleven, who meet but four times a year, to wit on the first Wednesday of each Quarter.

Nota. Their travell is great & dangerous, their stipends but small. five of them are payed by Laick Vicars in money yearly, the other six who have their Vicarages in their own hands, are payed by the people in Fish, Oyl, Butter, Wool, Lambs, & such like Countrey Commodities.

This I had from Mr Hugh Leigh Minister of the Gospel in Brasie and Buro.

John Mark^[2]

Footnotes

1. ↑ Hugh Leigh, a graduate of King's College, Aberdeen, served as minister of Bressay & Burra from 1672-1714
2. ↑ from "Geographical Collections Relating To Scotland Made By Walter MacFarlane", Vol III, Sir Arthur Mitchell & James Clark, editors, printed by T & A Constable, Edinburgh, 1908.